AFTERNOON TEAS

Let's admit it! The art of afternoon tea is mostly lost on Americans. The other day I saw an advertisement in local paper for a High Tea on Sundays at such and such fancy hotel. The time advertised was 2:00 pm to 4:00 pm. That raised my suspicions that the hotel hasn't the foggiest what they are talking about. And sure enough.

The High Tea for two was $30.00 and they served several different teas, finger sandwiches, sweets, tarts, pastries and a hot chicken dish complete with vegies and mashed potatoes. All you can eat, of course. Bingo! I've got them. I called the Maitre d' and revealed to him that the hotel is engaged in false advertising as the occassion should be called Low Tea and not High Tea and I added that it is served at a wrong table. Ooops. Maitre d' being of Middle Eastern or Indian ethnicity congratulated me on the knowledge of English tea customs and explained that here in America they call it High Tea because people know what to expect.

To those of you who are not privy to the English tea customs, an explanation:

The invention of the English habit of an aternoon tea has been attributed to Anna, the seventh Duchess of Bedford (1783-1857). At that time it was customery to eat breakfast and dinner only. Dinner was usually served as late as 9:00 pm. As the time between these meals was very long, especially in summer, the Duchess had her servants secretly serve slivers of bread with butter, mackeroons, cheescakes and pastries in her budoir early afternoon. Voila, the Afternoon Tea has been born. It became very fashionable especially among the high and middle classes. Ladies of status created At Home socials. These socials were announced on a simple white cards stating that: "Mrs. John Smith will be at home at three o'clock on February 3, 1824. Afternoon tea and light refreshments will be served. Morning dress." In case of a longer event such as a ball "Carriages at five o'clock" was rather amusing way to let the guests know that they are expected to leave at 5:00 pm.

These Afternoon Teas or At Homes were usually served at low tables such as todays coffee and side tables and hence they were referred to as Low Tea. The typical fare other than the tea was small finger sandwiches, breads, tarts, pastries, cheesecakes and such. Nothing elaborate.

Young people and lower classes preferred tea between 5:00 and 6:00 pm. Young middle class people played tennis, bridge and other games in the afternoon to amuse themselves and the lower classes worked till 5:00 pm so late tea was preferred in these circles. The lower classes had the afternoon tea after 5:00 pm and because dinner time was usually as late as at 9:00 pm or so people ate more substantial meal with the tea at a dining table which was high as opposed to low coffe table hence High Tea. The High Tea was also called Family Tea as it was mostly a family affair. High Tea meal was also called supper in some circles. For some folks this meal was also a dinner if it was substantial. Therefore, at High Tea, more elaborate and substantial food was served. The heavier the food the earlier High Tea was served. Light High Tea was served as late as 7:00 pm. The food usually included one or two small hot dishes, cold chicken, game, ham, tarts, custard and fruits.

Now for the tea. The kind of tea served was the domain of the hostess. These days the teas available even in specialized stores are mostly blended teas of various flavors and colors. At "High Tea" today there is a selection of teas in tea bags for the guests to choose from. Never serve a tea bag at High or Low Tea. That's Rule #1. Always select loose tea. And remember, usually the higher the tea the better. "Higher" refers to the elevation at which the tea is grown.

Types of teas:

English Breakfast Tea - blend of Ceylon and Indian teas. Strong and best left for breakfast.

Russian Caravan Tea - blended tea and excellent for afternoon tea.

Yunnan Tea - sweetly flavored, deep golden tea ideal for iced tea.

Jasmine Tea - flavored with jasmine petals, good for aternoon tea and late night tea. Drink it weak and with slice of lemon in a cup.

Darjeeling Tea - a blend of India teas from high Himalayas. Indian tea at its best. Served at English clubs and country homes. Pure Darjeeling tea is very costly and available only in specialized high end stores. To be served with milk.

Earl Grey Tea - blend of China teas flavored with oil of bergamot. Excellent for afternoon tea. To be served with lemon. Twining brand is the best available in markets everywhere.

Lapsang Suchong Tea - very distinctive tea greyish in clor and with smoky pungent flavor. Drink naked or with lemon. Never with milk. Not all guests may like this tea.

Keemun Tea - this tea is from Northern China and has smooth, sweetish flavor.

Oolong Tea - comes from Formosa (Taiwan) and is lighter version of Darjeeling tea and very delicate. This and Keemun are teas of connoisseurs.

Black Currant Tea - blend of black tea and black currents extract ideally suited for afternoon tea and for iced tea.

Note: When using milk in tea always pour smnall amount of milk into a cup first than add tea.

Enjoy!

George